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First Ascent: Warren Harding, with Glen Denny, Allen MacDonald, and
minor efforts by Les Wilson, Chris Westphal and George Whitmore; October
of 1961.
Notes on the route:
The Leaning Tower is a magnificently overhanging rock that greets visitors
as they exit the Wawona Tunnel and enter the Valley. The West Face route
sparked a huge bolting debate because many critics felt that too many
bolts were placed. For his part, Harding maintained that he was free to
climb in whatever manner he chose. Royal Robbins Ñ who was outspoken in
his criticism of Harding Ñ soloed the route 18 months later for the
second ascent.
Head left, away from the restrooms at the parking area, and watch for
cairns that mark the beginning of the trail. Follow the trail along the
base of the Tower, being sure to avoid the treacherous gullies to the
right.
The class 4 ramp to the dead tree is fairly solid, though some parties
rope up for the final two rope-lengths before the start of the first
pitch. With bolts to the sky and immediate exposure, pitch one is an
eye-opener. Pitches two and three can be combined, but be suspicious of
all bolts and be aware that some may be missing. Most parties carry a
cheater stick because placements through this section can be quite spread
out. Pitch four is usually fixed, but there is some broken gear near the
top of the arch that makes for reachy aid. Belay from Guano Ledge and then
move over to Ahwahnee Ledge after hauling. There is occasionally a fixed
line draped across this section. Most parties fix pitches five and six
from Ahwahnee, then rap back to the ledge for the night.
Pitch five is an awkward traverse. Pitch six starts on a face that can
be hooked, then moves through a manky bolt ladder that is missing bolts.
Most people use their cheater-stick, although rumor has it that you can
pendulum left to some loose flakes and dicey thin aid to get to the bolt
station. Pitch seven is a long one and takes very small gear at the top.
Pitches eight and nine can be combined into a 155-foot pitch, but watch
out for rope drag and don't rip into the Evil Tree. Some parties are
forced to bivi on the sloping ledge at the top of pitch nine, but it isn't
a terrific place to stay. Pitch ten is usually fixed, and hauling to the
slabby belay is formidable work. You can also bivi here if you need to.
Top out with a 5.0 move, then follow a short traverse to the summit ridge.
The Descent:
Some parties find getting back to the car as difficult as the route. There
are tales of people getting washed to the very brink of Bridalveil Falls,
or rapping off the end of the rope in total darkness in the Gunsight. The
easiest way down is to exit the summit to your right, follow some class 4
slabs downwards, and make two or three southward rappels to the Leaning
Tower Chimney. There are rap stations at the Chimney. A long rap at the
end of the Chimney spits people off the cord daily, so move right toward
some slings on a tree in the chimney while rappelling the final slab. From
here it is an easy rap to the ground.
Info provided by: Russ Walling, Doug McDonald, Doug Munoz and
others.
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