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Here is a little bit about California Ice
climbing. I grifted this from Quang-Tuan Luong of Berkley. Bored of
sun bathing and being warm, try ice climbing it's killer.
--Shitbag
Lee Vining
This is the major ice-climbing site in California, located East of Yosemite. It
is quite crowded, with all the consequences (falling ice, hacked-up routes,
waiting lines...). Ice forms consistenly here, thanks to a leak in a water
conduit. The approach is 45 mn. There are three 2-pitch routes on the left,
quite close to each other, which are about 4/4+, and a continuous flow on the
right, which is one-pitch high and less steep (3). There is an easy walk-out to
the right for all the climbs. Because of that, all the climbs can be easily
top-roped, which makes this site a very good practice area. Some variations
might form occasionnally. For this site and the following, Wilson Eastside
Sports in Bishop (619) 873-7520 generally knows the conditions.
June Lake
2 pitches of moderate (2/3) ice, also generated by a leak in a water conduit.
Forms also quite consistently.
Lake Tahoe area
See the guidebook "Climber's guide to Tahoe rock", pp 245-250, by Mike
Carville. There are a number of areas listed. The bottom line seems to be that
lots of them have ice which is short (half a pitch or less) or not steep, or
often mixed, or rarely formed, or, in most cases, a combination of the above.
The exception seems to be Cold Stream Canyon near Donner Pass, which requires a
3-4 hour ski approach for six lines ranging from 50 to 70 meters and grade 3-5.
Daniel Engovatov cheked Eagle Creek, and found that it was not high enough to
be interesting. One of the best climbs in this area would be Eeyore's Fantasy at
Lover's Leap. It is 3 or 4 pitches long, and forms every 5 years or so, as a
rather thin and mixed climb. The first pitch is usually the technical crux at
4+R. It can be bypassed by traversing a ledge, to get to the following pitches
which form in a large chimney. In March 1996, following a week of intense cold,
Eeyore's Fantasy at Lover's Leap formed, and had been climbed by several parties
over a week-end. The following Saturday, after a week which had been moderately
warm, we drove to the Leap. After four hours spent in the car and one hour and
half of approach, we found out that the first pitch was not climbable. It had
considerably melt out within five days leaving the ice extremely thin with no
adhesion. This unfortunately is very typical of California ice. I have had a
similar experience during the same winter in Yosemite Valley.
In the winter 97/98, someone farmed ice near Donner Pass, producing excellent
lines easily accessed, and I heard rummors that in 98/99 Eeyore's Fantasy was in
(gardened) all the way to the top. Alpenglow sports (916-583-6917) in Tahoe City
is generally a good source of information for current conditions in this area.
Tokopah Valley, Sequoia NP
Forms consistenly in the late season. Some climbs are threatened by avalanche
hazard. Park at Lodgepole and go up the valley a mile or so. A range of
difficulty and lengths. The most interesting climb is Moonage Daydream, which
follows the North Gully of the Watchtower for 6 ill-defined pitches. My friends
found it to be the best ice climb they did in California. Just down the canyon
is Hoppys Favorite, about WI4, 400 feet. See "The General's Highway of
Sequoia National Park: A Climber's Guide" by Amos Clifford, also published
as a Rock and Ice Mini-Guide (issue number 21 ?). Although they don't climb, the
rangers of Sequoia National Park (try 209 565 3135 and 209 335 2856) have an
idea of the weather.
Yosemite Valley
The Valley has supposedly very interesting climbs. The only printed source of
information is an article in Rock and Ice, number 35, 2/89. For personal
information, it is recommended to go and see Walt Shipley in the tent 4 at the
SAR site on camp 4. The next best thing to do is to watch the temperature, and
ask the climbing store. The climbs are all on the South side:
- the Widow's Tears (300m, V 5). Visible from the bridge. It is a most
sought after climb, especially since its first ascent in 1975 by Mark
Chapman and Kevin Worral in 3 days was a real landmark climb. However, it
doesn't form every year.
- Silver Strand (175m, III 5). Visible from the Wawona overlook at the
entrance of the tunnel, supposedly more consistent.
- Upper sentinel falls (150m, IV 4). Forms relatively consistently, long
approach. The complete sentinel falls (300m+, VI 5+) has a crux which rarely
forms and fell down immediately after the first ascent, something typical of
Yosemite ice climbing.
- Spinal Tap (200m III 5+/6), a route at the right of the previous one,
first climbed in desperate conditions on extremely poor ice, also typical of
Yosemite ice climbing.
This looks good, doesn't it ? However, the catch is that if you are not a local,
your chances are extremely slim. The valley is too low to maintain reliable
conditions, and according to the locals, the climb have never been in condition
more than a week. They tend to collapse very fast (often a couple of days after
you climb them at most), and even when they are formed, the climbing is on funky
ice, often thin, mixed, and rotten. A week long of cold is required for things
to form up, but also there must be a special pattern of inversion.
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